What is water mitigation? What it includes, and how it differs from restoration.

If you have had a leak, a burst pipe or a wet basement, you have probably heard the words mitigation, remediation and restoration, sometimes from the same company. This guide explains what water mitigation means, what it usually includes, how it differs from restoration, what your insurance expects, and what to check before you hire anyone.

Our sources are the standard homeowners policy form, Michigan’s insurance and licensing departments, the EPA, the CDC and FEMA, along with two national restoration companies. We are a restoration company and we sell this service, so we have tried to be clear about what you can do yourself.

What “mitigation” means

To mitigate is to make something less severe. Servpro puts it simply: water damage mitigation means minimizing the spread of water, or stopping it completely. Paul Davis calls it the first step after water gets into your home, about stabilizing things, not making repairs yet.

You will also see the word in two other places:

• In your insurance policy. The standard HO-3 homeowners form asks you to protect the property from further damage after a loss, make reasonable and necessary repairs to protect it, and keep a record of what you spend. That is mitigation in the insurance sense, and it is your job, whoever you hire to do it.
• At FEMA. FEMA uses hazard mitigation for long-term planning by state and local governments to reduce the harm from future disasters. That is a different thing from drying out your house.

What water mitigation usually includes

1. Stopping the source. Shutting off a supply line, fixing a leak or getting a plumber in. Servpro notes that this is not always simple or safe, depending on the cause.
2. Making it safe. If electrical circuits or equipment are wet or near water, the CDC says to turn off the power at the main breaker, but not to stand in water to reach it. If you cannot reach it safely, call an electrician.
3. Removing standing water. With pumps and extraction equipment.
4. Finding hidden water. Water travels under flooring and inside walls and ceilings. Moisture meters and thermal cameras, like the one in the photo above, show where it went.
5. Removing what cannot be dried. Soaked carpet pad, drywall or insulation that will not dry in time. Some companies count this as mitigation, others as remediation or restoration.
6. Drying. Air movers and dehumidifiers pull water out of materials, including water you cannot see. Servpro describes return visits to monitor the drying until materials are back to their normal moisture level.

Why speed matters

The EPA says that if wet or damp materials are dried within 24 to 48 hours, in most cases mold will not grow. Servpro adds that the longer water sits, the more damage is done. Our guide on how fast mold grows after water damage explains the 24 to 48 hour window.

Mitigation vs. restoration

The simplest way to think about it:

• Mitigation stops the damage and dries the building. It ends when things are dry.
• Restoration (also called reconstruction or build-back) repairs and rebuilds: new drywall, insulation, paint, flooring, trim and cabinets.

In practice, companies do not all draw the line in the same place. Servpro lists extraction, removing damaged materials, cleaning and drying among its “restoration” steps, with construction last. Paul Davis keeps drying under mitigation and puts the removal of drywall, insulation and flooring that cannot be dried under restoration. Google’s own summary puts removal of ruined materials under mitigation. The industry’s drying standard, IICRC S500, is not free to read, so we could not check how it words this.

Because the words vary, judge an estimate by its list of work, not its label. Ask what is included, what is not, and who will do the rebuild.

What about “remediation”?

Paul Davis uses remediation for removing contaminated or unsalvageable materials, cleaning and sanitizing, and dealing with mold or bacteria left behind by water. With sewage, that part matters most. Our guide to category 3 water and sewage backups covers it.

Can you do water mitigation yourself?

For a small, clean spill, often yes. In order:

1. Stop the water if you can do it safely.
2. Keep away from wet outlets, fixtures and appliances, and turn off the power at the main breaker only if you can reach it without standing in water.
3. Take photos and video before you clean up. Michigan’s Department of Insurance and Financial Services (DIFS) says to protect your property if it is safe, take pictures, keep receipts, and not throw anything away until your insurer says you can.
4. Move furniture, rugs and electronics out of the wet area.
5. Deal with standing water first, then damp surfaces. Amica, an insurer, suggests a wet vacuum and dehumidifiers, and opening windows and doors to air the home out.

Call a professional if water got into walls, ceilings or under the flooring, if it came from a sewer or a backup, if a large area is wet, or if things are still damp after a day or two. Those are the cases where water hides and the 24 to 48 hour window gets missed. Our guide on what to do when your basement floods walks through a wet basement step by step.

Does insurance cover water mitigation?

It depends first on whether the water damage itself is covered, which comes down to the cause and your policy. Our guide to homeowners insurance and water damage in Michigan covers what is usually in and out.

If the damage is covered, the standard HO-3 form goes further than allowing mitigation. It expects it. It asks you to protect the property from further damage and pays the reasonable cost of necessary steps taken only to protect covered property from further damage. The insurance editors at FC&S explain that the policy’s neglect exclusion applies after a loss: further damage you could have prevented by protecting the property can be excluded.

DIFS adds a few practical rules:

• Contact your insurance company before hiring a contractor.
• Make temporary repairs only, and keep the receipts. Do not make permanent repairs until the damage has been inspected.
• Company adjusters are paid by the insurer and should never ask you for payment.

Calling your insurer first does not mean waiting days to start drying. It can be the same hour. Our claim tips cover what to photograph, what to say and what to keep.

Hiring a water mitigation company in Michigan

Michigan’s Department of Licensing and Regulatory Affairs (LARA) says contractors offering home work that totals $600 or more in labor and materials must be licensed. A residential builder license covers building and remodeling. A maintenance and alteration license covers specific trades, such as carpentry, insulation or basement waterproofing, which are listed on the license. LARA also says:

• Licensed contractors and their salespeople carry a pocket card. Ask to see it, or check the license online.
• Get the agreement in writing, and get estimates that state the total price, payment terms, materials and expected time.
• Never pay for the whole job in advance.
• If you were approached at home and signed the contract there, you have three days to cancel, by registered letter.

Also ask whether the same company will do the rebuild. If not, you will need a second contractor once the drying is done. We do both, under one contract, and hold Michigan Builder License #2101187907.

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